Degrowth and De-Enshittification

My early 2011 MacBook Pro in all its ragged glory, featuring worn keys, spiderweb-cracked touchpad, and Steve Logan's Reckoning 1 artwork of a smokestack sprouting a tree.

Degrowth: that’s the idea that, given endless growth is and always was a capitalist delusion, we should all actively be going in the other direction, making less money, being less productive, buying fewer things, taking up less space, expending fewer resources. A lot of people get really grumpy when they hear about it, because obviously: it is an anticapitalist concept, people have to give up amenities if they’re going to do it, and nobody (I mean, except those of us who see the painfully obvious writing on the wall and know the choice isn’t between continuing to grow and not continuing to grow, it’s between retreat and rout, in other words doing it on purpose in an orderly fashion or having it handed to us on a burning platter which also contains our heads) wants to give up anything.

Now look at the state of big tech, of the internet, computers, phones, machine learning, the cloud, cryptocurrency, the concept of “disruption” somehow assigned a positive connotation in the context of capital, X, etc etc. Doctorow calls this “enshittiffication”, and a finer neologism I have not seen. But what if—run with me here—tech has already hit the massive wall of fire and beheadings that is already coming for all of us? We made it to “the golden age of TV”, and after the golden age, there comes a fall. Free fall is exactly what this feels like. I have to drop out of Dropbox and build my own open-source cloud somehow, using borrowed time, because they’re going to steal all my content (and Reckoning‘s) and feed it to their AI. If I want social media I have to enter the lockstep of a billionaire. Ever since I heard of the internet, I’ve been told that computing capacity and speed will double every two years until the heat death of the universe. It’s fairly obvious that stopped being the case early in the 2000s, and what they’ve done to live up to that prediction since is make more and more computers, with more processors, using more resources, and then wasting that processing power making the internet ever more unnecessarily complicated in the name of monetization.

Where to from here, then, except down?

And again, there are two ways to do it, proactively and reactively, heads on platters and otherwise. We know the consequences if we don’t back away, because they’re happening: identity theft, privacy violations, disinformation, intellectual and artistic poverty, real poverty due to the catastrophic concentration of wealth, corporate-captured democracy, deregulation, kleptocracy.

De-enshittify. Divest from corporate-captured technologies and go back to all the old self-hosted solutions that still work and aren’t going anywhere. Self-hosted, open-source websites, email, newsletters. DIY cloud. Hard copy digital media. Computers made before 2005. Phones that—what? Only work as phones? Fat chance, even for me. In a lot of ways I feel like I can be in the vanguard. I live small, I travel as little as I can, drive as little as I can, buy as little as I can. And it works, I can use the money I didn’t spend on a gym membership, a daily seven dollar coffee, beer, bread, meat, gas, apples, or a semiannual overseas plane ticket on a journal of creative writing on environmental justice instead. But when it comes to our (my) engineered addiction to devices, I feel far less confident. I try to adapt how I use those devices, slowly, gradually, faking myself into it the way climate change is faking us into thinking snow always tasted salty and summer forecasts for smoke inhalation are normal and live-withable. And I laugh at myself, at the fact that I can give up fossil fuels more easily than I can give up tapping the little icon when the red badge lights up saying someone somewhere liked something I said.

But even if that’s all I can manage, I’m not about to throw up my hands, cede the entire concept of individual action to the corporate lobbyists who worked so hard to render it meaningless, sit back and concern myself with clearing the red badges off the icons until the end. Dana Fisher talks about crisis points, “climate shocks”, about how maybe, once the really bad climate consequences descend, the ones that incontrovertibly impact all of us, not just the poor, the disabled, the not-white, the coastal, the low-lying, the arctic, but actually everyone, that’s when finally we’ll arrive at consensus and act to avert even worse consequences. I hope so? But in the meantime there is a ton of work to be done for those who don’t need to be clobbered with a two-by-four about it.

All this pertains to the concept of the “brightweb” I threw out half-seriously in that post about missing stairs. This hypothetical brightweb is bright not because it’s well-lit by corporate and government surveillance but because it’s curated by humans who care about other humans, it’s small and interpersonal instead of vast and facelessly engaged in the elision of the human, and because it runs on old, “outdated”, open, functional, non-enshittified technology. It’s hypothetical, for now, but not because it’s not already out there. It’s just not self-identifying as one thing; it’s not unified. Mostly these days the things that unify us are already corporate-captured: social media, journalism, nations, leaders. So we’re all out here laboring in our own individual ruts. At least for now.

Am I proposing a De-Enshittifiers Union? Why not?

Want to join? For a start, let’s quit using some of that shit.

Culinary Sap

So much for sugaring season.

All that excellent advice from my homestead and permaculture garden books telling me to keep herbs and plants I’ll use most frequently closest to my kitchen door wasn’t meant to apply in February. But this year, thanks to catastrophic climate change tipping points, I had a near-endlessly replenishing bucket of maple sap six booted steps from my back door starting at the end of January. It kept going right up until all the parks departments and conservation orgs around here started advertising their sugaring events. By the time those events rolled around, the season was on its last legs.

It was more than a little startling, even though I already knew how extraordinary this winter was going to be. The environmentalist PR machine turns more slowly than the climate.

Lucky me, I got a boost. I wouldn’t have had my spile in so early if I hadn’t heard some local Detroit native and Indigenous urban farmers talking about adapting to extreme seasonal variation at an OU event last fall. I’m very grateful. Last year I didn’t hardly get any sap at all.

I’ve been tapping this tree a few years. But I’ve never really done the traditional sugaring process. It just seems like too much energy expenditure for too little payoff. To make maple syrup from sap, you’ve got to reduce its volume by a factor of 20. In preindustrial times, this made sense: you were concentrating your sugar into a form that would keep while simultaneously keeping your people warm in the cold, something you’d have had to do anyway. These days, unfortunately, heating, food preservation, and cooking have been logically separated by infrastructure decisions that mass production and matters of scale make very hard to renegotiate. I could turn off my heat while I’m sugaring, rely just on the heat from the stove, but then my house will have been heated with free-range water vapor when it could be heated by steam neatly trapped within radiators. I’ve thought about boiling maple sap instead of water in my home furnace, using the generated steam in my radiators and getting delicious maple sugar as a byproduct, but I don’t have the engineering nor the fabrication skills.

So I experiment with other, more efficient, hopefully as delicious ways to use maple sap.

I’m in pursuit of those pieces of lost culture, the old, discarded interconnections which once made us more like all the other living things on earth we now distance ourselves from so much by default. I don’t want to do it just for aesthetics or out of nostalgia. I want to make it work for us. I want to reintegrate with these natural cycles to learn, to rediscover what drew us to integrate with them in the first place, and to hopefully set an example that such reintegration, which is going to be essential to these coming decades and centuries of climate adaptation for our species, is possible, and can be a joy, not a hardship.

Is the sap running? Well, you’d better go and catch it!

Tapping is easy. All you need is a hardwood tree (birch, walnut, maple) more than a foot in diameter, a $5 spile, a drill with a 1/4” bit (go in about an inch and a half, that’s plenty), a sturdy food grade vessel with a bit of clothesline or something to secure it in place, and a stretch of days in which the temperature fluctuates above and below freezing.

The tree is for the most part unharmed, as long as it’s big enough. But I worry about mine anyway and go far gentler on it than I’m advised I could be. It’s a beautiful sugar maple, we ask so much of it, we climb it and swing from it, it shelters us and cools the climate and feeds us—the parallels to a certain children’s book are unavoidable, and I want to do better than that.

Sap comes out of the tree sterile. And filtered. Few purer things in this world than maple sap until it touches bark or human lips. Still, they tell you not to drink it raw. Guess who does anyway, but do as I say not as I do for your own safety, please. Also, uncooked, it definitely does not keep. A few days at room temperature, and maple sap starts to smell like moldy cheese. But there’s so much to do with it, so much that is delicious and rewarding, just by cooking it a little, enough to kill whatever groggy ants fell in the bucket while the sap was running high.

Below we have some recipes. The rule of thumb is: anywhere you’d use water to cook and might enjoy a little sweetness in the end result. Every year, I struggle at first, I look at my notes, I remember how this works. Then I get into a routine. I start to push boundaries and try new things, some of which fail. But I learn. And I miss it when it’s over.

Maple sap with a sumac drupe steeping in it

Maple Sap Sumacade

  • 1 quart maple sap
  • 3 or 4 dried sumac drupes
  • optional 1/4 oz crushed dried coriander, allspice, anise or other seeds

Sumacade is Anishinaabe in origin as I understand it, though it’s also a thing in Lebanese cooking apparently? It was an institution here in Michigan for a good while both before and after colonization and immigration, it seems like, though I don’t know anybody else who makes it now. “Drupes” is a cool word—that’s the clusters of fuzzy red berries. They’re sour, fruity, a bit nutty, and they’re still on the trees in February in some places where the birds haven’t found them. I went out and picked some and steeped them in maple sap just brought to a boil with a few crushed allspice berries. I don’t know if that part is canon; I do it because I’m influenced by ponche de jamáica and I like it. Let it cool completely and then strain and drink over ice. I also really like it hot; it’s got vitamin C, it’s nice for a cold.

Maple Ponche de Jamáica

  • Small handful of dried hibiscus flowers
  • Three crushed allspice berries
  • 1 qt maple sap

Normally I’d use honey, but the maple sugar covers that. Bring almost to a boil in a small saucepan. Liquid should turn a delicious dark red. Strain out the bits and drink hot or chilled over ice.

Maple Café de Olla

  • 20 oz maple sap
  • 1/4 cup coarsely ground coffee
  • 1/2 stick cinnamon
  • 1 fairly substantial curl of orange rind

A treat I have enjoyed in Guatemala and Mexico. I put the cinnamon and orange rind right in our french press with the coffee, and at all other times of the year but this, include a tablespoon of dark brown sugar. The maple sap is milder and goes great with milk.

Cross section of a maple sap sourdough ciabatta

Maple Sap Sourdough

Ferment a sponge using sourdough starter overnight with maple sap instead of water. The yeast, in my experience, loves the extra sugar in the sap, resulting in a faster rise and near-criminally rustic crumb.

Maple Sap Beer

“Best beer I ever made.”

—My cousin Matty.

Beer is the best way to use up a ton of sap at the peak of the season. One five-gallon batch will easily consume eight gallons of sap, since the hopping process involves an hour-long boil. I’ve done maple stouts, porters, brown ales, a pale ale, and this year I am waiting patiently for a maple sap spruce tip IPA to mature. I tried cooking down sap to use instead of a dextrose priming solution at bottling time, but couldn’t get the specific gravity quite right and ran out of patience.

Other Stuff

If you’ve got C02 and a keg, you can fill it with maple sap and have maple sap seltzer; the CO2 preserves it longer than it would last exposed to oxygen, though not forever. You can braise greens in maple sap; I’ve done collards, kale, chard, I’ve steamed spinach. I am curious what would happen if I used it to cook rice or even risotto but haven’t tried. Oatmeal the fancier the better, cornmeal porridge, polenta. Hot chocolate. Tea: I’m a little snobby about tea, but anything I’d be willing to put milk and sugar in otherwise is delicious with maple sap. You can use it instead of water in pickling solution and brines. You can use it to reconstitute dried mushrooms.

And, yes, you can make maple syrup. It’s still worth doing, as a special treat. I personally recommend what I’ve been calling maple sap caramel, where you put a quart of maple sap on the stove on medium at lunchtime and let it simmer away all day, til after dinner it has passed the syrup stage and congealed into 2 tablespoons of gloriously delicious goo, which you then eat over ice cream.

I am certain there are a million more applications yet to be rediscovered. Any ideas?

A toast to the tree with some maple sap seltzer

All this—as with everything, of course—is temporary. The long-term climate and habitat forecast calls for maple to move north, along with other hardwoods, following the freeze/thaw cycle. (Did you know Canada has strategic maple syrup reserves, which it already had to break into in 2021 to make up for plummeting production?) But I have reason to hope that process will take long enough I can keep on experimenting for another decade, at least—mitigating my water usage, buying less sugar, and thereby reintegrating myself with natural cycles and interdependence with other living things. And I expect this to yield all kinds of dividends in other directions, which—from this industrialized, hyper-specialized perspective I am trying to shrug—might seem unrelated, but will turn out to have been the same thing all along.

Actually Extant Stairs

The repaired bottom step in my parents' basement.

A “missing stair” is a horrible person in a community who is such a fixture that everybody just habitually does the extra work to avoid them rather than pointing at the problem or trying to fix it. Everybody, that is, except the people who can’t, either because they’re new and haven’t heard or have been actively misled or who just don’t have long enough legs. Apparently this expression originates in kink, but I learned it from the speculative fiction community, and that’s where I’m applying it now.

The implication, of course, is that someone’s a shitty landlord.

The bottom step of my parents’ cellar stairs had a huge crack in it for years. It kept getting wider. I wasn’t home often enough, my parents and sisters and little nieces and nephews didn’t seem to mind it, but I ended up staying in that house with my family for a week while we all had COVID, and it made me nuts thinking how some poor little foot, or an aging not-so-sure-anymore foot, was going to come down wrong on it, and a head was going to be busted open on cold concrete. I vowed, upon my very next return, that I’d fix it. It was not actually that hard. I had to work out a bunch of rusty tenpenny nails, remove the board, find a suitable replacement in my dad’s scrap wood pile, cut it to match, hammer the bent nails straight, replace the broken nails with screws, and reinstall it. It’s ugly but sturdy. I was so happy and relieved to have done so.

But this process drove home for me the limitations of the metaphor. No landlord that shitty should get to keep his property. Community ownership and responsibility are more complicated than having just one landlord unilaterally responsible for stairwell maintenance. This stairwell of which we speak is co-owned by all of us, or should be treated that way. When the stairwell stops working, it’s only for some members of the community. Some of the stairs aren’t missing, they’re corporate-captured, like your computer printer is now. They flicker out of existence for those without the means to pay the subscription service. It’s the rare stair that doesn’t. In this age of enshittification I feel fairly desperate to find them. I feel like I take a step, then practice balancing on one foot for a random amount of time like I’m trying to avoid sandworms when what I’m actually doing is hunting near and far for something else that looks like it might support my weight.

I propose a map. A map defining a non-euclidean stairwell consisting only of the extant stairs. Like a formalization of the process our brains go through automatically when there is a missing stair in an otherwise functional staircase: our bodies learn where the extra-long step is required, eventually we get used to it and can do it without having to be terribly conscious of doing so. It takes time, and the process is dangerous, and then once we’ve got it, it’s not free of degradation over time, especially if the stairwell falls further into disrepair. But while we’ve got it, it keeps us safe.

I wish I had more of the details of the corporate-independent architecture this map would operate on. I’m spread so thin, we’re all spread so thin. To ask for such a thing would essentially be to ask for a non-corporate internet. Could call it a brightweb to distinguish it from the other thing. The regular web is pretty dark right now. Imagine a web like the one that existed in 1995, but in 2025. Many steps backwards, to something small and reliable for a small number of users. I don’t know if Bluesky or Mastodon should be models for this, they can be cautionary tales instead. Not that cautionary tales work.

Then there’s the question of cataloging the extant stairs, testing them, making sure they’ll hold weight. How do we proceed? Slowly. And with oversight. Somebody’s job has to be to maintain each stair. Somebody else’s job has to be to keep checking on those people. Because stairs don’t just disappear because the got bought up by the conglomerate and replaced with an ad-supported subscription model. They also crumble because their health insurance got bought up by the conglomerate and replaced with an ad-supported subscription model. Or they were rotten when they were put in—but those are the ones we can watch out for.

How do we bring people to the map? How do we keep people from falling? Slowly, with patience and kindness, with a lot of help. Are you one of the people on this staircase with me? Are you also trying to be a solid stair, maybe offering a pair of laced hands to give people behind and below you a boost? I hope so, and if you are I hope I know you and we know we’re both trying. I try to imagine someone like you and me who’s out there doing this too, who maybe somehow isn’t spread so thin, who has the wherewithal to put the foundations under this stairwell in the sky without getting corporate-captured themself.

For now, though, until that person appears, I keep reaching out, looking for other laced hands.